Day 113 Sandwich MA 48 nm today 2330 nm to date

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The boat that was our break wall for the hurricane that never touched us. Note the stern staircase

Left Boston under sunny skies just after 7:30. Peter and Wilma had arrived on Ramble On last evening and Peter kindly donated his crewing services to Finnish Line. Interesting voyage out through numerous islands around Boston many, of course, with old military installations. Once out in the Atlantic the winds came up higher than forecasted so we got to sail for a few hours. Arrived at the eastern end of the Cape Cod Canal and as predicted we faced a few knots of current against us and opposing the incoming waves. It didn’t last long as our marina was only a short way into the canal. We booked there to have a more favourable current tomorrow morning. Harbour was an interesting blend of pleasure craft and fishing trawlers.

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One of the fortified islands coming out of Boston
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Sandwich Marina with our restaurant on the left behind

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Days 110-112 Boston MA

Friday we did some historical walks around, walking to Bunker Hill (a US Revolution early battle) and the USS Constitution, a ship built by the US and launched in 1797, remaining an active duty ship. The staff on-board that assist visitors are all active duty sailors and marines. The ship is known as Old Ironsides as its special oak sides were impervious to cannon balls.

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Captain’s quarters

 

 

 

 

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Officers’ wardroom

 

 

Later that day we prepared the boats for hurricane Dorian to go through overnight. For us it turned out to be almost a non-event with very little rain and the top gusts to only 23 knots.

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Crews’ quarters

 

 

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The shitters at the bow

 

 

 

 

 

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Remembered this lovely brunch spot from Tarja and my visit in 2007 — still good

Saturday we took the hop-on-hop-off trolley which gives a good overview of Boston. At one stop Chris and I went to visit the Mapparium. It was only after we’d bought our tickets did we realize that this was a Christian Science building. We survived though and found the 30’ globe an interesting visit … one walks inside it. It remains with the countries as they were in the 1930s when it was built.

As our marina is part of the old Navy yard we’ve enjoyed seeing the various buildings around the complex, only some of which have been renovated. One we saw today was the Ropewalk where very long ropes were spun. Also enjoyed the 1833 dry dock — the USS Constitution was its first customer when it opened.

In central Boston Saturday mid-afternoon I got to witness a fist fight … no idea what it was about but the chap with the bicycle got the worst of it.

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Woman throws the cyclist’s bike in the fountain during the altercation

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 109 Boston MA 18 nm today 2283 nm to date

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A visitor — we shooed him off before he could leave us a memento
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The way in is under the approach to Logan Airport

Picked our way through the Marblehead mooring field to clear water. Had a nice sail on a close reach for about 30 minutes before we had to turn to a run and the wind dropped. Sailed at 2-4 knots for a few hours before packing it in and motoring. As expected lots of traffic heading into Boston Harbor. We are across the Charles River in the Charlestown Marina part of the park left after the Navy Yard was decommissioned in 1974.

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The Commandant’s house within the old Navy Yard park —- looks shippie

Ramble On crew hopped a water taxi to do some walkies while we walked over to North Boston to meet up with them at pizza place from 1926. It’s a good walking city and we met many other walkers on the North Washington Street Bridge as it was rush hour —- good to see. After dinner we enjoyed a saunter around the neighbourhood to see many of the old buildings. Walked back across the bridge to get home and were treated to a spectacular sunset.

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Wonderful old pizza place
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Copper clad walls

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The old North Church —- “one if by land, two if by sea”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Our walking home treat

 

 

 

Day 108 Marblehead MA 12 nm today 2264 nm to date

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The Eastern YC tender – the steering is via the tall wooden stick

A cool, sometimes sunny morning resulted in a wonderful, exhilarating sail down Salem Sound. Arrived about 11 and were gobsmacked by the 100s and 100s of boats moored here. The field is so big the yacht club’s tender shows up to lead you to your mooring.

After checking in we took the launch to town and had lunch at Maddie’s which is supposed to be world famous among sailors but none of us had heard of it. After that we wandered around this lovely town with its very well kept up homes from the 1700/1800s most with a small plaque stating the year built, for whom and their occupation.

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The Eastern Yacht Club

Returning to the boat we had a relaxing late afternoon and evening in the cockpit despite an early evening thunderstorm going through.

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Mooring field from the ‘rock pile’ beside the Boston YC
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World famous? pub with two wobbly patrons outside

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after all the lovely homes, this!
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Lovely evening after the rain
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with dinner alfresco (leftovers from our lunch)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 107 Gloucester MA 36 nm today 2252 nm to date

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Two light houses, no waiting

40 mile motor in benign seas with no wind but it was sunny. Took a mooring ball in the upper harbour and rode our dink ashore to explore the town. Not as old and well maintained as some towns but pleasant nonetheless. Had dinner ashore (way too) early before dinghing back before dark.

Keeping our eyes on the weather as Dorian moves north. We will most likely go to Boston a day early to ensure we don’t get caught.

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Upper east side of the Gloucester harbour
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Now this is a beautiful boat. It’s a recreation of a boat that challenged the Bluenose …. and lost

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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A relative of mine? I doubt it.
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A pleasant, treed downtown

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 106 Portsmouth NH

We have had courtesy cars from marinas before but they were all end-of-life. This marina gave us a brand new GMC SUV. We had it for going into town 4 hrs and again for the evening to go to dinner. Also unheard of in our experience as it’s usually an hour max.

Mid morning we took a 1 1/2 hour boat tour of the harbour which was well worth it for both the scenery and the history. There is a submarine base here plus many fortifications from the Second World War back to colonial times. The town has very much kept its older buildings preserved. The Wentworth Hotel beside our Marina was where the 1905 treaty to end the Sino Russian conflict was negotiated. A local merchant, William Pepperrell, led the New England forces supported by the British Navy to take the fortress at Louisbourg from the French in 1745.

Before dinner we used the car to drive the narrow winding streets to view the many houses from the 1700s.

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Portsmouth waterfront
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Naval submarine base

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The notorious US Naval brig closed in the 1970s
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Wentworth Hotel

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Our marina – part of the tour
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Downtown
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My purchases for the day

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 105 Portsmouth NH 47 nm today 2217 nm to date

Sunny start with calm seas. Easy run to Portsmouth with both sails up also the motor. Thanks to Chris’ suggestion we think we finally have the slight overheating of the engine under control.

Arrived at Wentworth Marina about mid afternoon. Very nice facility but then this what you get when you pay USD 3.85 a foot.

Relaxing dinner on-board with a wee bit of scotch to follow.

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Sure happier to have made here on my ship rather than this one.
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Cape Elizabeth light, a fine example and just one of the many along the way.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 104 Portland ME 24 nm today 2170 nm to date

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Our quiet anchorage

Awoke to sunny skies and silence except for a few bird songs. Enjoyed the quiet and beauty until 11am when we departed for Portland. The seas were calmer but the soft winds were often on our nose so didn’t have any sails out for long. This being Labour Day w/e there was an enormous amount of boat traffic and, of course, the usual crab pots.

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Breakfast on deck for US Chris while CA Chris does boat work

The Portland harbour is in behind some islands which have forts on them from days gone by.

Had to wait for both the fuel dock and our slip to be ready. Why do folks tell you it’ll be ready in 2 minutes when they know it won’t be? I’d rather know the truth. Waited on the fuel dock with the incompetent dock hand.

Spent the evening wandering around the old town. Some streets were pedestrian only with old warehouses converted into shops and restaurants. Quite a vibe going. It was quite crowded and mostly with university aged kids. We discovered that indeed there are several colleges close by.

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Ramble On (left at fuel dock) with some slightly bigger craft
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Tide’s out !
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Old warehouses serving a new purpose

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 103 Snow Island ME 26 nm today 2146 nm to date

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Anchored off Snow Island. The red J46 is where we had dinner

Bit of a slog under sunny skies. Winds were in the high teens with the waves 3 to 4 feet with a short period between. Ramble On tacked out to run in under sail but we don’t point as well so we decided to go with full main, shortened jib and motor. It wasn’t overly pleasant but it was only a few hours before turning up to run with the wind the 5 nm to our anchorage. More protected from waves and wind it was a smooth and wonderful sail up the channel with occasional alterations of course to avoid anchored/moored boats. We were passed by a small runabout with 5 or 6 people aboard who slowed down and yelled, “yay Kingston , wonderful sailing”, followed by a thumbs up. Since very few Americans have heard of Kingston that was an interesting moment.

This anchorage was a meet up with friend’s of Ramble On. They came out to meet us in their dinghy to give some guidance of the best place to anchor. We had dinner on their boat which was lovely and interesting to hear their sailing adventures. They spend most of their summers cruising these waters and racing the Newport to Bermuda race and the Marblehead to Halifax race so many interesting, funny, and horrifying tales.

This part of Maine is a whole set of long fingers that lead to pretty and protected harbours and anchorages, see the attached photo.

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The jagged coast of Maine. We are the red triangle in the top right

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 102 Christmas Cove ME 39 nm today 2120 nm to date

A long day of motoring through various islands and, of course, crab pots. But no fog! We do an hour on an hour off so one can relax a bit and keep refreshed for crab pot lookout concentration.

Arrived in the very picturesque Christmas Cove late afternoon under warm, sunny skies. Enjoyed a very good dinner ashore and I had the best oysters this trip from the nearby Damariscotta River.

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Ramble On departing Camden
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Ramble On in the Christmas Cove mooring field
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Our view at dinner sitting on the balcony