Author: BobS

Out of the Escuminac Harbour at 9:30 after paying out $15 per boat! We asked what time the fish processing store opened. The office woman said 9am but she’d call over. Sure enough we were told just to go over and they’d open the door for us. Got some shrimp, scallops and lobster meat.

Dull, grey day and another exciting lobster pot avoidance day which lasted for

a few hours. After that was it was a straight run in the Northumberland Strait. Saw one other sailboat on the horizon going the other way otherwise it was just us —— guess it was too far for the fishing boats.

A dull and rainy morning. We set off at 1pm to make the short 15 nm hop to position ourselves for the calmer weather tomorrow in the Northumberland Strait. many hundreds more lobster pots and we crossed over (according to the chart) The Lump and The Swashway.

We are in a harbour that has the largest fishing fleet in the Gulf of St Lawrence. There are two basins. We went into the inner one to get diesel but at times we only had a foot under of water under our keels. A lot of fishing boats had just come in and were refuelling so we were directed to the outer basin where we tied up and rafted together. Fuel dock opens at 8am with no competition as all the boats will be out. However it’s also low tide so we think we’ll carry on and get fuel at the next stop.

Off the dock at 4am along with the rest of the fishing fleet. Calm seas, sunny skies and little wind meant for a calm voyage across Chaleur Bay into New Brunswick waters. Surprised to see how many lobster pots there were even in 350’ of water.

Off Miscou Island we encountered all the fishing boats in the world and lottsa and lottsa of lobster pots. No straight course here!! Several friendly waves from close by boats and one radioed us to find out where we were from and going to … he then wished us a good voyage.

Left at 9am with a send of party of the kind folks who entertained us in Gaspé.

For the first 3 miles it was rolling with the waves a beam but after we turned to travel the 17 nm down the bay the winds and waves were behind us. Still rolling but more tolerable. Winds in the 20s and gusting to high 30s.

Turning around Pointe Pierre we could see the awesome sight of Percé Rock. We were able to sail some of the 5 nm under jib only. Each boat took pics of the other around the famous Rock.

Gaspé was discovered/found by Jacques Cartier in 1534. Many french left when the British under General Wolfe seized the area and later the British had an initiative to settle the british here. Today there is a strong english and french community.

Linda has very good friends here who loaned us their car to get privions and sight see. They gave us a big lobster dinner with their extended multi-generational family. Great hearing their views of life and country in this part of Canada. A wonderful group of people, indeed.

Went to Percé Rock today and to visit l’Anse-a-Beaufils where we hope to overnight soon. Good thing we went as the docks are not in yet! However, we did have lunch at La Vieille Usine. All 3 of us had smoked salmon pizza …. yum-yum!

After we bought 6 pints across the harbour from Microbrasserie Pit Caribou.

Tomorrow we leave *IF* the winds die down. The last 2 days have been gusting to 35 knots. The winds were supposed to be diminishing noonish tomorrow but now some wind apps are showing 50+ !

Set off mid morning under mostly sunny skies and a very flat ocean to round Cap Gaspé on our way to Gaspé Harbour. At Cap Gaspé we will make a 160 degree turn to starboard … essentially a u-turn. As the crow flies it is 11 nm but by boat it’s 34 nm. Luckily there was beautiful scenery and magnificent cliffs 100’s of feet high. We passed Cap-des-Rosiers where the largest lighthouse in Canada stands.

And then, whales! The plumes of water from the whales’ blowholes were huge and the tail splashes larger than our boats. The noise from the whales blowholes was quite loud and eerie. Taking pictures of diving whales with a zoom camera on a rolling boat is more talent than I have. Luckily Chris on Ramble On did get some great shots which I will post later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After our u-turn some rain came in and losing the sun it became cooler. Arrived in Gaspé Harbour about 4pm. We refuelled then went to our places on their long dock —- it’s quite the hike back to land! ? We are here for 3 or 4 nights depending on weather and winds. Linda has friends here who are treating us to a lobster dinner on a Saturday. Debbie leaves Finnish Line here but rejoins in Halifax.

 

Off about 9 this morning before the water got too skinny for a departure. Where we backed and turned had just over a foot left below the keel and by low tide that foot would be gone.

Day started sunny but by afternoon had turned cloudy and cool with some light rain drops.

 

We did pass by The Pride of Baltimore bound for the tall ships event in TO. Lovely ship but we were 4 miles away so didn’t get much of a view of her.

Arrived in Rivière-au-Renard mid-afternoon. It is a very large fishing port so lots of trawlers about and fresh fish to buy. According to the harbour master this is one of the best places in the maritimes to get items on one’s boat repaired. unlike other centres like Halifax Rivière-au-Renard is small and all the services are very close by.

Off about 7am with little wind which gradually changed to the point that we were able to do some down wind sailing.

 

 

About 8am I spotted on AIS vessel roughly on our track coming the other way. It was Bluenose II ! Radioed Ramble On and we altered course to port to ensure we would have a close meeting. Couldn’t raise them on the radio but did get some enthusiastic waves and a horn toot. Pretty cool!

 

 

Late morning we had a milestone — we passed the most northerly point of our trip. Same latitude as north of Thunder Bay.

Simple dinner at restaurant at the marina. It was a beautiful evening so we walked around and enjoyed the beauty cast by the setting sun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Spent the morning straightening up the boat and getting the blog up to date. Left Rimouski mid afternoon and made a point of crossing the wreck site of the Empress of Ireland to have a moment of reflection.

Shared watches hour on hour off until 11pm when we changed to two hours on two off. The winds were good except they were almost aft but at such an angle that one couldn’t go wing-in-wing w/o going off course however the jib wouldn’t fill on the required course. After doing reasonably well gave up on the jib but with the wind down gave up and motored until the early hours when we went back to just main. About midnight an inbound freighter called us on the radio by boat name to say he was slowing his speed so we could get past his track. Pretty decent of him! The power of AIS (ship/boat identification with name, position, speed, direction, type of vessel, etc.).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quiet night at anchor. Our 5 wind apps couldn’t agree on strength, gusts, and direction. With a potential rain storm coming we had lots of discussion on when to leave finally taking off 10ish. Not a great day as although there was not much wind the seas were lumpy and we had some drizzling rain. Arrived about one and filled up with diesel. After a late lunch on Ramble On Chris and I went shopping leaving the women onboard. Nothing wrong with this picture when you know we went to a marine store and Canadian Tire. About a 20 minute walk through some interesting back streets. Very good dinner at the marina restaurant. Popular place and understandable as the food and service were very good.