Terrible night with the boat rocking a lot-most unpleasant. Not unhappy to leave at 8:30. Had to avoid a fleet of pleasure fishing boats getting out of the harbour but after that it was a straight 20 nm shot on mostly a beam reach. Full jib and partial main kept us going at 7 knots, very pleasant and made up for last night.
I can see fishing in a lonely remote spot but shoulder to shoulder on a crowded boat ??
Passed north of Fishers Island and then took down the sails to begin the winding trek up the river to our marina.
Late afternoon we took an Uber and enjoyed walking around the well preserved old town and had a lovely dinner at the 1750 Captain Daniel Packer Inne.
Leaving Vineyard Harbor we met this lovely craft with his and hers dinghies
Off at 8 to do the 48 nm to Point Judith. Sunny skies but curent against us for Vineyard Sound. Because of the current and the batteries badly needed a charge we motor sailed. Out of the Vineyard Sound and into Rhode Island Sound we turned the engine off and enjoyed four and a half hours of sailing. The wind was directly behind us so we had to head up and throw in a few jibes to make our destination. Even from three miles offshore at Newport (think New York YC, America’s Cup) we could plainly see the enormous mansions (summer homes) the Robber Barons had built in the late 1800s. Good grief!
Romping along with Ramble On on a broad reach.
The winds that were mid teens for most of the day piped up to the low 20s mid afternoon. With seas on our quarter it was rather like a good sail in a washing machine. We arrived at the Port Judith Harbor of Refuge about 4pm. This harbour was built in the early 1900s as a storm shelter for boats travelling between Boston and New York. We anchored and Ramble On rafted to us. Unfortunately it’s rather lumpy in here. Linda on a Ramble On, our chef de Voyage, had the fun of cooking while being hit by random waves. Nonetheless she delivered a great meal as always. We didn’t think our boats would do well against each other even with many fenders and lines so immediately after dinner Ramble On went off to anchor separately.
Our anchorage. The protective wall is so low it’s difficult to see although you can pick out the land on the left and one of the entrance marks in front of the jib. Large harbour and this only shows a quarter of it.
Day opened calm but very overcast. As we were making our minds up when to leave heavy rains came with winds in the high teens. Decided not to go and just hunker down. Rains ended late morning but the cold winds kept up. Had to go ashore to pay for the extra night and was soaked within 20’ of leaving the boat!
Due to winds we stayed to explore. The island has a very good bus service, one can get an all day ticket for only $5. Saw a bit of our town, Vineyard Haven, then hopped a bus for Edgartown. Lovely old town with treed streets and lovely old homes and churches. A pleasure to walk around. Somewhat touristy but enjoyable nonetheless. We then hopped a bus to Oak Ridge to do some alcohol shopping … our town has no such store as it was dry up until recently. Oak Ridge was almost the antithesis of Edgartown rather down market with a Coney Island feel. Returned to our town and enjoyed a nice (but late) lunch before a bit of boat then groc shopping and returning to our boats.
Our late lunch was in the building on the right at The Black Dog TavernRight in the middle of renovated or well kept buildings is this ….and inside this. Very interesting.
Railway bridge with party hats …. designer had a whimsical streak
Off the dock early to fuel up and catch the favourable current on the canal. There are many warnings against moving with a foul tide using words like, “bank suction”! All went well and we even broke the canal speed limit but the patrol boats didn’t pull us over.
tight mooring fieldRobinson’s Hole
Then it was into Buzzards Bay and some sailing. We decided against the Woods Hole cut due to unfavourable currents and aimed for Quicks Hole but seeking entertainment Peter and I went through the narrower but closer Robinson’s Hole. Tricky — faced only 1+ knots of current against going in and coming out but over 3 knots halfway through. Lots of eddies but the boat steered well and we popped out nicely at the other side.
lots of ferries coming and going with wash and horn blasts
Then it was a slog up the north side of Martha’s Vineyard mostly under 5 knots with both sails and motor. Arrived mid afternoon and had a delightful time trying to find our assigned mooring balls. It’s a tight mooring field and we had to change mooring balls as there was a motor boat that was dangerously close and we are expecting a bit of a blow. These moorings were $50 per night, most expensive we’ve seen.
The boat that was our break wall for the hurricane that never touched us. Note the stern staircase
Left Boston under sunny skies just after 7:30. Peter and Wilma had arrived on Ramble On last evening and Peter kindly donated his crewing services to Finnish Line. Interesting voyage out through numerous islands around Boston many, of course, with old military installations. Once out in the Atlantic the winds came up higher than forecasted so we got to sail for a few hours. Arrived at the eastern end of the Cape Cod Canal and as predicted we faced a few knots of current against us and opposing the incoming waves. It didn’t last long as our marina was only a short way into the canal. We booked there to have a more favourable current tomorrow morning. Harbour was an interesting blend of pleasure craft and fishing trawlers.
One of the fortified islands coming out of BostonSandwich Marina with our restaurant on the left behind
Friday we did some historical walks around, walking to Bunker Hill (a US Revolution early battle) and the USS Constitution, a ship built by the US and launched in 1797, remaining an active duty ship. The staff on-board that assist visitors are all active duty sailors and marines. The ship is known as Old Ironsides as its special oak sides were impervious to cannon balls.
Captain’s quarters
Officers’ wardroom
Later that day we prepared the boats for hurricane Dorian to go through overnight. For us it turned out to be almost a non-event with very little rain and the top gusts to only 23 knots.
Crews’ quarters
The shitters at the bow
Remembered this lovely brunch spot from Tarja and my visit in 2007 — still good
Saturday we took the hop-on-hop-off trolley which gives a good overview of Boston. At one stop Chris and I went to visit the Mapparium. It was only after we’d bought our tickets did we realize that this was a Christian Science building. We survived though and found the 30’ globe an interesting visit … one walks inside it. It remains with the countries as they were in the 1930s when it was built.
As our marina is part of the old Navy yard we’ve enjoyed seeing the various buildings around the complex, only some of which have been renovated. One we saw today was the Ropewalk where very long ropes were spun. Also enjoyed the 1833 dry dock — the USS Constitution was its first customer when it opened.
In central Boston Saturday mid-afternoon I got to witness a fist fight … no idea what it was about but the chap with the bicycle got the worst of it.
Woman throws the cyclist’s bike in the fountain during the altercation
A visitor — we shooed him off before he could leave us a mementoThe way in is under the approach to Logan Airport
Picked our way through the Marblehead mooring field to clear water. Had a nice sail on a close reach for about 30 minutes before we had to turn to a run and the wind dropped. Sailed at 2-4 knots for a few hours before packing it in and motoring. As expected lots of traffic heading into Boston Harbor. We are across the Charles River in the Charlestown Marina part of the park left after the Navy Yard was decommissioned in 1974.
The Commandant’s house within the old Navy Yard park —- looks shippie
Ramble On crew hopped a water taxi to do some walkies while we walked over to North Boston to meet up with them at pizza place from 1926. It’s a good walking city and we met many other walkers on the North Washington Street Bridge as it was rush hour —- good to see. After dinner we enjoyed a saunter around the neighbourhood to see many of the old buildings. Walked back across the bridge to get home and were treated to a spectacular sunset.
Wonderful old pizza placeCopper clad walls
The old North Church —- “one if by land, two if by sea”
The Eastern YC tender – the steering is via the tall wooden stick
A cool, sometimes sunny morning resulted in a wonderful, exhilarating sail down Salem Sound. Arrived about 11 and were gobsmacked by the 100s and 100s of boats moored here. The field is so big the yacht club’s tender shows up to lead you to your mooring.
After checking in we took the launch to town and had lunch at Maddie’s which is supposed to be world famous among sailors but none of us had heard of it. After that we wandered around this lovely town with its very well kept up homes from the 1700/1800s most with a small plaque stating the year built, for whom and their occupation.
The Eastern Yacht Club
Returning to the boat we had a relaxing late afternoon and evening in the cockpit despite an early evening thunderstorm going through.
Mooring field from the ‘rock pile’ beside the Boston YCWorld famous? pub with two wobbly patrons outside
after all the lovely homes, this!Lovely evening after the rainwith dinner alfresco (leftovers from our lunch)
40 mile motor in benign seas with no wind but it was sunny. Took a mooring ball in the upper harbour and rode our dink ashore to explore the town. Not as old and well maintained as some towns but pleasant nonetheless. Had dinner ashore (way too) early before dinghing back before dark.
Keeping our eyes on the weather as Dorian moves north. We will most likely go to Boston a day early to ensure we don’t get caught.
Upper east side of the Gloucester harbourNow this is a beautiful boat. It’s a recreation of a boat that challenged the Bluenose …. and lost
A relative of mine? I doubt it.A pleasant, treed downtown