Category: 2019 Down East Circle Route

Luckily we weren’t too cranky from last night when we left about 9am. We were dragging our dinghy with its engine but as we neared the ocean it was not riding the swells well. Decided to stop and haul it up. That involved getting in the dinghy to attach the securing lines as well as the davit clips. Not the easiest thing in a rolling sea next to a rolling boat. But kept my weight low and my movements slow and deliberate so both I and the dinghy survived.

Passed some very nasty rocks and shoals on the way into Mahone Bay but the bay itself was very broad and lovely. About noon we arrived in Chester’s back harbour and dropped anchor just outside the mooring field. Ramble On rafted to us and we both dropped our dinghies and headed into Chester for lunch. Chester is deservedly well known for the quaintness of its village. There is a lot of money here to make it so. It is a popular yachting community and Chester Race Week attracts a lot of CDN and US race boats. The races begin next week and the boats begin to arrive today hence we are anchored out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Set off mid-morning for an easy motor down St Margaret’s Bay. Passed an anchored Coast Guard cutter along the way but it did not launch any ribs to check us out this time —- perhaps they’ve tired of us?

Reached our cove about noon. If you hadn’t seen it on the charts you wouldn’t know it’s here. There’s a small boating club on the shore that has many mooring balls out. So many that it was very difficult to choose an anchor spot where we wouldn’t hit the shore or a mooring ball. After checking out the whole cove we settled on the entrance just after the last moored boat. Before we dropped the hook a kayaker came by to give us some tips on the water levels: good on the right side, very shallow on the left at the entrance. It was 40’ of water but I was leery of letting out more than 110’ for fear of swinging into the rock side of the cove. 80’ was chain with light winds so thought we’d be good. At dinner another boater (a ship pilot from Halifax) came by to further warn us of the shoals on the left. There was a family of seals there all day so we figured it was shallow. Sure enough at low tide in the late evening we could see a ledge awash.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

An easy out mid-morning. Had a 38’ US boat, Monarch, running parallel to our port side decide to head into a bay to our starboard. Rather than delay a minute he rushed by our bow causing some concern on our boat. When visiting other countries it’s better to remember one is an ambassador of one’s own country.

We passed within 500’ of Peggy’s Cove at mid-day. Lots of tourists milling around the lighthouse rocks. Then it was jib up and a pleasant run into the head of St Margaret’s Bay. There was no room at Shinning Waters Marine so we continued around the corner and anchored in a nicely sheltered cove. No fishing boats here but plenty of expensive homes and boats!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off late morning after Debbie arrived and Ramble On called into the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron for a $48 pump out. That’s right, $48! Whew!

Slowly sailed out of Halifax Harbour after motoring fond the wind shifty Arm. Once back in the Atlantic the cool winds came up with lottsa wave action. Luckily we weren’t going far. We stayed close to the coast and north of the famous Sambro lighthouse. We went carefully through small channels to get to our anchorage at the top of Sambro Head arriving about 4pm.

Had forgotten what a beautiful city Halifax is with its well treed streets, history and polite people. If jaywalking, drivers will stop for you!

We had two dinners at the Armdale Club and enjoyed both: limited menu but great tasting food. The balcony overlooking the harbour is a gem.

We visited Pier 21 the immigration museum (updated since my last visit in 2008) gives a realistic impression of what the 860,000 people who arrived here would have experienced. We then walked along the Halifax Waterfront. Unlike Kingston, Halifax has maintained its waterfront for people. We arrived at the Marine Museum which has good displays of Halifax’s maritime history from the British founding in 1748 to the 1917 explosion to the convoy formations through both world wars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Woke up to …. surprise! Fog. Well not dense fog more of a shroudie fog that had mostly cleared by the time we departed at 8am. However, once we were back out in the Atlantic it was as thick as ever. Occasionally it would lighten so we could see each other at 1/4 a mile away but that was rare. Finnish Line 2.0 has radar so Ramble On was in charge of navigation while Finnish Line 2.0 rode radar shotgun. Kept Ramble On abreast on port side and did see two boats appear near them. The first I suggested they slow and alter course. The second was just a heads up as a boat was coming their way but along a parallel course. Some time later I saw a pink dot on the radar off my starboard bow 1/2 mile away. It seemed erratic and heading my way. I slowed and radioed Ramble On that I was altering course to cross their stern. Shortly after got a call on the radio for Finnish Line (thank you AIS) asking me if I could see him. I replied that I could see him on radar and he said he was behind me. I looked around and there was a mid-sized fishing boat 50th off my stern! Yikes! After that I figured out how to attach movement vectors to radar targets!

Left Shelter Cove about 11 in more fog than when we came in. It’s supposed to be a very pretty anchorage but we’ll never know. Today’s motor was much like yesterday without the big swells. However, when we reached the mouth of the Jeddore River it slowly began to clear. We did not like the anchorage as recommended in Active Captain so we continued up river and found a very nice and, yes, pretty anchorage. However, just after we anchored we could see the fog rolling up the river at us. Hopefully it dissipates and we can have dinner in the cockpit.

btw, we do not know if the name of this river is Jeddore. No name on charts nor google maps so we named it after the town.

 

 

 

 

 

Foggy, foggy day. We could not see the island behind us 1/10 of a mile away so decided to wait for it to clear. This occurred about 11:30 so by noon we were off in wonderful sunshine. Except it didn’t last. The fog returned and was very thick. Although the two boats maintained a position of about 400’ of separation they often could not see each other. Most of the 22nm route was wending our way around small islands and shoals. Thank goodness for radar and AIS!! Worst part was having to wipe the mist off my glasses every 45-60 seconds to be able to see the chart plotter …. most annoying.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grey day with fog appearing later. Did a bit of kayaking but it wasn’t the best weather for it. Both boats mostly puttered and read and spent a great deal of time chasing cell service. ?

A sunny and much calmer day. It was a few miles longer than yesterday but we made much better time with few swells. Unfortunately it was all motor sailing but que sera sera. About an hour after departing I had a call from Ramble On to say look out for wildlife. Minutes later I felt the boat take a bump and looking behind I had a quick view of a fin. A fin of what we don’t know but I seriously believe it was Moby Dick (and I’m stickin’ to that!).

Thanks to GPS and our plotters were were able to stick closer to shore and weave and bob through the small shoals and rocks. As there were no white caps it was very easy to see the shoals!