Category: 2019 Down East Circle Route

This is a very beautiful harbour surrounded by high treed hills. There’s obviously a lot of money here. Hinckley Yachts are built here and there are many of them here. A 35’ beside Ramble On is a ‘picnic’ boat so really a day boat runabout. New this boat (pictured below) would cost about a million USD!

The town was pretty but high end and generally folks here aren’t that friendly or maybe we just got used to the friendliest of Nova Scotians.

 

 

 

 

Leaving just before noon we set off for our overnight to Maine. After almost 28 hours and 166 nm we arrived in Maine. The weather was good for the whole trip, waves were not big but wind was light too. It was warm going down the 9 mile Shelburne Harbour but the winds off the Atlantic greeted us with the big chill requiring many more layers of clothes put on. It was a little bit bouncy as we headed SW to pick up Brazil Rock to take the outside route around Cape Sable. After rounding Cape Sable we set a course NW to pass between Seal and Mud Islands. Passing through these islands at the wrong tide can leave one with strong currents. We passed through about 9:30pm ADT in the dark. However, a large fishing trawler nearby w/o lights caused a bit of concern when it turned up on our radar. After connecting by radio he agreed to put on all lights until we were passed. The moonrise at 11:30pm ADT was a spectacular blood red ball appearing over the horizon off our sterns. During the night the engine seemed tougher and was producing more white smoke. Stopped the boat, put it in reverse for a few minutes and the problem disappeared which meant there was something caught on the prop. In the morning we had overheating incidents. The first was fixed by cleaning the raw water intake strainer which had been cleaned before we left but there was much plant life floating around. The second involved tweeting the impeller which didn’t make any sense but it worked.

Hanging in Shelburne waiting for a weather window to cross to Maine as we have to round Cape Sable and cross the Bay of Fundy. It’ll be a 26+ hour crossing. We’ll depart Tuesday mid-day.

Shelburne is a treat as an historic town. Sort of Lunenburg without the bustle. We toured the 3 museums: the dory factory, the town museum, and the Ross-Thompson House.

I have wonderful memories of visiting the dory factory from our family trip here in 1993. They used to turn out 2 dories a day – over 50,000 were built since 1880. Now they build 1 or 2 a year. The Ross-Thompson House had a wonderful tour guide in period costume who took us all through the house. It was a rich merchants’ house built in 1783. Later it was left vacant for 40 years before being bought by a Harvard professor. Almost all the original furnishings and other household pieces were still there making it a real find as a museum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Off again in a fog bank. Our usual routine: Ramble On leads and does the navigation. Finnish Line 2.0 is close behind with a split screen showing the charts with its position plus the position of Ramble On via AIS. The other window has the radar for two miles out to identify marks out of place and/or other boats near by and if found inform Ramble On as to where. Has worked rather well as we’ve made it this far w/o a collision. Today we went through the .3 mile gap on the north side of Ram Island and couldn’t see either land. Once through I looked up from the radar screen to see a fogless view of the land I was steering at. Wow, very jarring. Not that it was close but when you’re not used to seeing anything …. Fog, of course, came back just as quickly. Thankfully it finally ended about 2pm so the last hour we got to enjoy the fine views of Nova Scotia.

 

 

 

 

 

Mouton so named because a sheep fell of Champlain’s ship here in 1604.

Woke up to fog and went to the bakery for a delicious breakfast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After 10am the fog was clearing so off we went only to be met by very thick fog near the river’s mouth. Thank goodness for AIS and radar as we came near several boats moving in the opposite direction to us, several very close. Visibility was less than 2 boat lengths. The visibility increased to a 1/4 mile in the afternoon and finally clearing mid-afternoon.

Interesting sail past some shore caves at the mouth of Lunenburg Bay. Sunny day with little wind until we couldn’t use it (of course!)

After going up river to get fuel at the Lahave YC we came back down river a few miles to dock at a bakery. That’s right, a bakery! Building also has a wonderful old bookstore and reading room as well as a crafts room. Lovely late lunch and we were able to pick up scallops for dinner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Decided we had the time to spend 2 days here so we didn’t have to rush too much. First day visited the 3 marine shops within easy walk of us although they were all rather minimal. When paying for our extra night the young attendant offered to drive us to the liquor store as well as wait and bring us back. Now that’s service!

We visited the Maritime Marine Museum which, while a little run down, was very useful to understand the history of the fishing industry here. They also have two ships to tour which illustrated the progression of the industry’s ships.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice breakfast at the local coffee shop, Eli’s Espresso. Then off on a gloriously sunny day with not too much wind, well not much at all. Did put the jib up but the we had some very weird wind thing: the pennants on our starboard side showed the wind from the starboard while the jib out on the port side was back winded! It was too much of a mental strain so we furled the jib.

While still heading southish a fly bridge fishing craft coming our way changed course several times so we headed off to stay out of his way. When finally abeam of us he radioed us to look out for the several sunfish ahead. We did see them or rather just the fin. Did take pics which are ok if you like black triangles sticking above the water. ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Woke up again to a foggy morning. Decided to leave anyway and half through it did lift.

On the way into Mahone Harbour we passed Indian Point where the author of our guide book, “Down East Circle Route”, Capt Cheryl Barr lives.

 

 

 

We docked at the town wharf and went off for lunch at Oh My Cod. The chap clearing our plates heard us talking about Navionics (digital chart provider) and asked us where we were from. He replied that he was from Hamilton. I said that we arrived by boat and he said he had too. Apparently, he and his wife had sold up everything and set sail for the Caribbean stopping at Mahone Bay town because of weather. They liked it so much they bought the restaurant! Now that’s a flexible approach to life.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Layover day in the charming town of Chester. Foggy in the morning but cleared up in time for Chris and I to dinghy to town to pursue some engine oil for our dinghies late morning. I knew my engine’s propane was low and sure enough it quit before the dinghy dock and we had to row the rest of the way : 30’. Were able to get some oil and do a bit more of a toodle around the town. Back to the boat for a nice lunch in the cockpit and then some boat maintenance. About 5pm we all headed out in Ramble On’s dinghy for dinner and theatre. Our dinner at the White Gate was wonderful: food, service and ambience. Although as we left the owner standing at the door we left by was too busy texting to say goodbye. ? Just down the block was the theatre where we saw, “God is a Scottish Drag Queen” with Mike Delamont. Very amusing non-politically correct swipes at many religions including Scientology, the Mormons and the Westboro Baptists plus many nationalities. All good fun.