Category: 2022 Finnish Line 2.0 in the Bahamas

We decided not to head west to Andros as originally planned but rather to do a few more Exuma islands and then head to Palm Cay on Providence (where Nassau is). We know from previous experience that it is a nice marina and has a courtesy car to do some provisioning. However, the no slips were available when we wanted them so had to move up our trip there by several days. At Palm Cay, Wilma announced that this was a good departure point for her and can’t say we can blame her. We are all a little knocked about from the longer crossing days with the seemingly rolling waves. Our next stop was to be the Berrys and then onto Bimini, but we decided instead to work our way up the Berrys and then cross to Grand Bahamas island to check out with customs and then begin our journey up the US coast back to Canada.

Hawkesbill is a Bahama Park Property and offers about 10 mooring balls there. Much to our surprise only one was taken when we arrived. Turns out it is a very, very rollie area so sleeping wasn’t very restful.  Peter read about a poisonous plant on the island but did not know what it looked like. To be safe this was one island we did not go exploring except for the beach. It’s quite pretty and has several beaches. However, in leaving the beach we ran over a sandbar and lost one of the dinghy motor blades. A new one is not obtainable in the Bahamas other than by importing one. However, we are close enough to the end of the trip that it won’t severely curtail us.

The military looking ship is really a 220′ super yacht named Intrepid. It follows the mothership, a 290′ super yacht, Infinity, and carries the toys that Infinity doesn’t have room for. They are owned by one of the Google folks. See https://www.superyachttimes.com/yacht-news/exclusive-damen-support-yacht-intrepid-joins-mothership-infinity .

Staniel Cay, a whole 4nm from our last anchorage. Staniel now has many mooring balls which considering some of the shallows and reefs is much more civilized. This is the view off our port side. The island on the left is the grotto where the James Bond Thunderball fight scene was filmed. The grotto is way better than the fight scene!

This boat’s name is “Second Amendment”. What crap!

More high winds in the 20s with gusts into the low 30s. Moved this morning to gain a little distance on Staniel Cay where we can do some provisioning and maybe a wee bit more shelter. We were the only boat last night, but today’s anchorage appears to be well known by many. Only 4nm so we had extra time to defrost both the fridge and the freezer. Winds are to start dying down tomorrow so we’ll head up to Staniel.

We have a w/e of big winds so moved this morning from Little Farmers Cay up the coast of Great Guana to Hetty’s Land. Waaaaaay calmer here as we are parked 200’ off a nice hill. Plus, it’s sunny! The journey here was exciting in 25-30 knot winds. One of my solar panels lifted off but we caught it before it was damaged. The radar reflector halyard broke but that’s not a biggie. Even w/o a sail up we were heeled 10 degrees!

Picked our way through some skinny water with Peter on the bow on rock lookout, Wilma reading the Explorer Charts from my iPad and Bob driving with their input. When we were here in 2018, we had dinner at Ty’s Sunset Grill and realized one could anchor just off the beach. We tried that this time, but we have some heavy winds for now and the next few days and the space was too exposed. We moved south around the point. We dinghied ashore and had a nice walk to the other side of the Cay and then up to the north side to visit the Little Farmers Cay YC. Our return took us down the airport runway which took us to Ty’s to make a reservation. Like many places here, we had to pre-order our food.

We came back by dinghy to land on the restaurant’s beach. The sunset was ok BUT the so-so food was hugely overpriced and the drunk waiter kept forgetting our beer order. Hard to believe it was the same place Tarja and I enjoyed 4 years ago.

Sunset Grill

Returning to our boat

We are on Cave Cay. It is a resort marina. We are the only boat at the marina and the resort, 15 years later, is still being built! It’s rather like a ghost town. But very, very beautiful. The harbour, including the entrance, is natural, all they had to do was dredge it. The large building with the wrap around porch gives a spectacular 360 of the island including the waters on both sides. The other building is a semi-detached cabin with lots of worker tools in it …. but time has already caught up with it.

An another boat arrived here from Clayton NY … the owner lives on Grindstone near Canoe Point. He very kindly gave us lots of great food as they cleaned out their boat to head home. This has been the boat’s home port for the last 3 years. Their plane is here, too, and is the way they get in and out. The laundry is out to dry as they only have a washing machine aboard.

The boat

The plane

btw, you can buy the whole island for USD 60M. See https://www.privateislandsonline.com/…/the-exumas/cave-cay

Yesterday at Rudder Cut Cay Wilma and I found many turtles and swam along with them. Pleasant quiet enjoyment.

Peter’s photo shows our track last evening as we circled our anchor several times as the tidal currents fought the winds.Peter wrote, “Our path at anchor at Rat Cay … the blob of squiggles to the left (west) is our path yesterday afternoon. Steady, consistent. At about 1830-1900 we noticed the boat adjacent had turned 90 to face north.. we followed soon after. Then the circus began. Around and around we went as shown by the bowl of spaghetti .. and we changed direction in mere minutes! Our sense of direction were the lights, due south of us of the town of Barretarre. I’ve never experienced anything like this. As I write this, the ebb tide current has once again facing due east”.

This morning happily made it to Lee Stocking Island and are anchored in 7’ of water. Twice we had to stop as the engine wasn’t getting water. Seems it’s fine in lower revs but not higher  Thanks to a note from Chris McDonnell we have the problem fixed—the strainer raw water intake needed a new O-ring.

A beautiful spot where we will probably spend several days as high north winds are coming later in the week. I’m sure we’ll cope.

On the second day I flew my drone to get some aerial views. Sadly, on the 2^nd takeoff it dropped into the sea. Peter took great effort into drying it out but the following date turning it on only yielded a puff of smoke. So, the drone is no more.

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Path to the Other Side

Sea Creature Mounds

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Drone’s Final Photo

We are currently in the Exumas on the west side of Rat Cay … obviously the marketing folks weren’t involved in the naming of this one. Not many beaches here to land on but then there’s nothing to see on land so that works out well. The charts have a warning about anchoring in the channel and I guess we were as some big honking motor boat closely crossed our stern. We moved!

Now that we are in the lee of Exuma Sound, and the winds and waves it brings, things are peaceful … there is plenty of current in these narrows (FL2.0 has a slight bow wave at anchor!)

The Clamer Anchorage #2

As the tide ebbs and floods. We are anchored in 18’ of water, which is a very swimmable 80F. There are many shoals in these parts, and the varying water depths have an awe inspiring variety of blues.. they are gorgeous and aid in navigating!