Category: 2022 Finnish Line 2.0 in the Bahamas

Wanted to get away from the crowded anchorage and buzzing dinghies so we left about 10am and headed the 9nm south east to Man of War Cay. When we got there we didn’t even try to get in let alone anchor as it was too wavy and windy. We thought it would be more sheltered given the descriptions. Instead we turned around and returned to the Stocking Island anchorage about a mile SE of where we had been.

Given the winds we will be here several days.

Took a water taxi to George Town today. Had a pleasant lunch and then did some shopping and we FINALLY scored a new Bahamian courtesy flag — the old one is only held together by gorilla tape and can only be flown by clothes pinning to a shroud as the grommets are blown out. Also got some groc and alcohol and Willie a rather fine new dress. So here we sit eyeing our neighbourhood: soooo many Canadian boats, many boats with fenders out (at anchor!), and soon, at sunset, we will hear from many boats conchs being blown. I am assured that this is a Canadian thing. Also I continue to be amazed by how much of the Bahamas was settled by UELs after the US Revolution. I guess travelling really is a learning experience

The purpose of this trip was to travel south to explore some of the more remote islands of the Bahamas. Unhappily wind and waves have prevented our further south advance. Instead, today we headed SW to George Town and will now go north at a very relaxed pace gunk holing through the Exumas. While disappointed after all the prep and research we are still cruising in February so life ain’t bad after all.

We set off for George Town at 6:30 under a beautiful sunrise.

We arrived to anchor off of Stocking Island about 3pm.

Last time we were anchored off Stocking Island (near George Town) 4 years ago there were probably 200 boats. That number has doubled! We will hike/explore Stocking and provision in George Town and then set off to quieter islands. Below when we left New Bight this morning at first light and then off Stocking Island after dark — a small city of boats.

Today we dinghied ashore to wander the beach and try to find the trail up to the monument on Monument Hill. We finally found the path and scampered up to the top only to find it was the top of the hill one over! So a wander down the side of it and up the other side to reach the summit. A very good view of the entire harbour plus the Atlantic side.

A quick motor around the corner and made our way in through the skinny water, 7-10’ the last mile and anchored close to shore at New Bight on the south end of Cat Island. Wilma and Peter got the grocery and beer shopping done with the help of the grocery store owner who drove them first to the beer store and then back to beach. Nice folks!

At cocktail hour we were treated to a quick squall which dramatically changed the light.

This morning we climbed Mount Alvernia, the highest point in the Bahamas, to visit the hermitage there. It was designed and built by an English Catholic priest for his own seclusion and worship. Very cleverly laid out.

Steps to the Hermiatge

The Hermitage

The last photo is looking out at the anchorage … we are the nearest boat in.

A nice sail down Cat with a partial jib. Dropped into Smith Settlement’s very tiny, shallow harbour and anchored Wilma and Peter went ashore to the grocery store on the other side of the road. They picked up only a few things as the delivery boat had not come in due to the weather.

We continued less than two miles south to Fernandez with its lovey white sand beach.

Today we knew was going to be windy with waves and some of the trip would be a honking good sail whereas the pieces exposed to the open Atlantic would be uncomfortable. However, the 3 days after that would be even worse so we decided to get on with it. We did have a very good sail down the west coast of the Eleuthera whale tail but, as predicted, when we turned east and until we were in the lee of Little San Sebastian it was a rough ride. With the winds over 20 knots and 5’ seas we were usually at 7 to 8 knots SOG (speed over the ground). Our speed through the water was more but we had a ½ knot of current against us. Overall, it wasn’t too bd and we did have a good idea what it would be like. However, like the Stream crossing, Wilma remained unimpressed but in good humour.

We arrived at Bluff Settlement about 4pm and anchored in a small cove. It was quite windy there, but we decided to stay and move the next day.

Next day w did move in the afternoon the few miles south to Big Bluff and sited a calm area close to shore as the higher points of land provided shelter. We anchored as close into the SE corner of the cove as we could while remaining a few 100 yard off. Much calmer. We also put up our riding sale which reduced our movement by about 50% Peter calculated.

The next day with the winds still over 20 and rain most of the day we decided to remain put.

No I wouldn’t rather be on that vessel!

Willie keeping a stiff upper lip

Left Rock Sound about 9 and had a nice beam reach over to Cape Eleuthera arriving 30 minutes ahead f what we thought it would take. We fuelled up and got to our slip just before noon. After lunch we began our tasks to get the boat ready including much cleaning of the boat and our clothes plus restoring the flag halyards by Peter winching me up the mast. We were done just in time for cocktail hour. 😉 This was Super Bowl Sunday and there was a pavilion and large screen TV just a hundred yards off our bow. We ignored it and were pleasantly surprised that it didn’t get very loud.

A pleasant sail to Rock Sound arriving early afternoon in bright sunshine. Wilma and Peter went ashore to the town dock and did a recon. They found a lovely beach front restaurant to eat at the next evening and a few other shops.

The next day we all went into town and then onto to the Ocean Hole sometimes know as a Blue Hole. It’s 680’ deep and 375’ wide and while inland a third of a mile it is salt water. We wandered back through town and saw a lot of derelict buildings. We don’t know if it was a hurricane or if the town had fallen on difficult times.
After an ice cream we returned to the boat for swimming and lazing about.

Unhappily our dinner did not go well. The owners were very nice as was the food and the setting. However, our wait person seemed to know very little about the menu and the food. Plus, she messed our order, so we didn’t get everything as stated. We decided that rather than write an unpleasant review we would email the owners our experience.

Rock Sound

Inland Salt Pond

Off before 9 and arrived by noon. Had lunch ashore at a food truck that Brad had recommended (very good) and then did some provisioning including FINALLY an ALIV SIM card for our phone. It gives us unlimited txts, unlimited calls (including North America) and unlimited data (although they do throttle back the speed after 100 GB.

Only one other boat in the harbour and they left not long after we arrived. This is a picturesque town; it was once the capital of the Bahamas. Only hold back is that there is no dinghy dock, so it means beaching the boat which means wet feet.

To get to Hatchet Harbour, one must cross through Current Cut. Given the wrong tides, a boater can be facing or going with a current of 5 to 7 kts. I got the math slightly wrong we got there 15 minutes later than the optimum, but it was still no biggie with a 1+ knot current in our favour. Halfway through, Wilma called out, “There’s Brad” — Brad is the chap we are on our way to visit. We found out later that he decided to drive the 22 miles from his place to get a good picture of us going through. However, rather than wait at the small ferry dock he decided to drive a bit further. Unhappily, he mistimed it and only got a quick shot through some trees. Oh well.

We arrived at Hatchet Harbour about 2:30 and Brad arrived not too much later to pick us up at the dinghy dock. We had exhausted our main propane tank the night before so Brad very generously drove us the 25 miles to get it filled. Along the way there and back he gave us a good tour. We stopped in Governors Harbour to get An ALIV Sim card, but they were closed even though their sign said that they should be open. When we next door to the booze shop, we found why: the electricity had gone off. We continued on the road back north but stopped at Delish at James Cistern Beach. They said the power was off there too but, yes, we could have a beer. The chef came out and said that she could cook us Grouper and veg on the stove (presumably gas) so we eagerly ordered it. It really was delish, and we ate dinner watching the sun go down. Then it was back to the boat with a big thanks to Brad. Brad has done the Gulf Stream crossing 19 times and many of the solo unless you count the dog. Early in the 2000s he built his house in Eleuthera and spends as much of the winter here as he can. Needless to say he was a great resource for us in planning our trip this time and the time 4 years ago.