A long crossing in 14,000’ of water directly exposed to the Atlantic. We left at first light (just before 6:30) and were able to use the jib while motoring
Bob photo bombs Peter’s sun picture
for the first several hours when the wind veered from NE to more southerly. With the jib down we not only went a little slower, but the swells made the boat very rocky. Mid morning it rained very hard, but this is always welcome as it washes the salt off the boat.
We arrived at 4pm in bright sunshine and anchored off a white sane beach in lovely turquoise water. Our only neighbour was the 468’ super yacht, Ulysses. The only annoyance from them was their helicopter taking off and landing several times. On the other hand, we were treated to one of the best sunsets we’d ever seen.
Left about 8:30 and got almost an hour of sailing in, rare so far in our trip. After that we had the wind mainly on the nose as we headed south but working our way around the various shoals. We could’ve gone outside but the 5’ waves dissuaded us. We arrived about one. Little Harbour is a delightful small harbour which in the early 50s was bought by Randolph Johnston, a sculptor from the US. He came with his family and lived in a cave with his wife and young children while they built a house and a studio/foundry for his work. One of his son’s, Peter who later took over the studio, built a beach pub named Pete’s Pub. An open concept with the only road of beach sand runs through the middle. Tasty food and fun service.
Since the last time we were here 4 years, a lot of new development has happened including one derelict building on the water being refurbished as a very nice club house for the Abaco Yacht Club. Seemed quite posh but not posh enough to not allow us in to look around. But this club along with the new, up market housing will greatly change the laid back, relaxed atmosphere that attracted Randolph Johnston and sailors since then.
Next morning, we hiked around the ruins of the lighthouse keeper and walked along one of the many beaches. At mid day we did the two miles to Lynyard Cay which is a staging point to/from Eleuthera. We dinghied into the beach and wondered around “our” beach as the folks from the 5 boats were on a separate beach.
Reporting in from Kingston. Bob & crew have not been able to get a SIM card for Bob’s travel phone yet and wifi has been very sketchy so he probably won’t be able to update the blog until mid next week when they hope to be Eleuthera. Meanwhile quick update, they arrived in the Bahamas on Monday (Jan 31) morning after a pretty bumpy crossing but are now enjoying the much warmer weather in the Abacos.
Reached Marsh Harbour in enough time to do grocery/booze shopping. Unhappily the ALIV store (for the mobile SIM card we wanted) was closed so we have to be content with Bob’s Telus roaming for awhile.
Peter counted six other boats at anchor at Marsh Harbour.
Huge destruction still visible here from Dorian. Buildings/Store we used when here last were just gone. Our Taxi driver said 80% of the telephone poles were down and almost all roads impassable for several weeks. :-/ But they have made good progress although we gather it won’t be back to normal for another 5 years – there are usually 20 to 30 boats anchored.
We set off about 12:30 for Black Sound on Green Turtle Cay. Again were into the wind and waves. Not a trip one would make normally but it did not seem worth it to hang where we were, and we had already lost more than 3 wees in Florida — so get on with it.
As we pulled in the narrow and shallow channel of Black Sound the winds were down BUT the water was getting shallower. Once we were through the narrow, marked channel it wasn’t as obvious where to go but our charts said 6-7 feet and we draw 4.5’. Well, we ran out of water and were aground for about 30 minutes. We dropped the anchor as the winds were coming up a bit and waited. It was low tide so with rising water, heavier winds, and some motor power we floated free and got off. We continued on to the head of the bay to Donny’s Marina only to find that they do not have fuel but there was a mooring ball we could stay on for the two nights we wanted.
We weighed anchor Wednesday morning at 7:30 and set off to cover the 44 nm to the Spanish Cay resort where we would check-in with customs and stay the night there. It started off calm as we head ed north to get around Sale Cay and then east but soon the winds picked up from the east so while the sun was shining brightly, we still had a slower slightly bumpy ride. Halfway there we passed the Centre of the World Rock! Probably named by some marketing type. The main excitement was near the end when with just .5 nm to go we ran out of fuel. We quickly dumped in a jerrycan’s worth but then had to drop anchor as it took about 30 minutes to get the fuel flowing and bleed the air out of the lines. Of course, as we were entering the harbour the customs agent was going home for the night. No biggie though as we were allowed off the boat and she checked us in the next morning. Unhappily the marina main buildings were having water issues meaning no water for showers or toilets and the restaurant was closed. We had dinner as usual on boar and celebrated the 4th anniversary of Peter and Wilma flying into Nassau to join us for two weeks the last time we were here.
After that it was taking down the Q flag and hoisting the Bahamas courtesy flag. The flag Is a veteran of our last trip here and after hoisting it the grommet tore away meaning that end of the halyard came down. Not to be defeated, we used some heavy-duty tape and cut some holes in it. Sadly, this resulted in Bob’s finger receiving a nasty deep cut. Luckily our resident nurse leapt into action and put a bandage on at exactly the correct pressure to close the wound but not have it throb nor have the end of the finger turn blue.
We took a brief walk around some of the resort and one of the beaches. Some of the buildings are fixed up but there is still significant damage form Hurricane Dorian in September 2019. Although low on fuel, we decided to skip refuelling there due to the high winds and the gas dock placement.
Well FINALLY we are in the Bahamas. Whew We left Titusville Sunday morning and headed down the ICW anchoring off Malabar or 6 nm south of the Melbourne Bridge. Calm and pleasant night and we were off the next morning about 8:30 headed toward Fort Pierce. Received an encouraging note from our friend, Brad who has a house on Eleuthera, saying that no matter how tough it is in the Stream just remember that, “It’s better in the Bahamas”. We went into the Ft Pierce Municipal Marina for diesel and then set off out the Fort Pierce Inlet which we timed for slack tide to be in calmer waters. We were out in the Florida Straight by 4pm and headed SE to get some southing before heading east. Once in the Gulf Stream it can carry the boat 2 to 3+ knots north. We also had 3-to-4-foot seas almost on our nose so our progress was slowed. If we had had winds to sail with and seas not working against us, we would’ve headed further south but, given our distance, we wanted to be at Great Sale Cay by mid to late afternoon the next day. From 20:00 Monday to 08:00 Tuesday Peter and I did 2-hour watches.
By 17:30 we were beginning to feel the Stream’s lumpishness which causing much lurching to get around the boat – many new bruises were gained. This lasted for 4-to-5 hours and the remainder went not too bad. After making us diner in the early evening as the crossing began, Wilma lay quietly on one of the salon benches with ear plugs in to cut down on all the rattling pots, etc. When I asked her the next morning how it was, she said it was awful and she wasn’t impressed …. but happy to be in the Bahamas. I don’t think she’s mentally scarred. We crossed into the Bahamas 22 nm north of our target of Memory Rock, north of Mantanilla Shoal about 05:30. With the sun rising we were in calmer turquoise waters, and we felt pretty good although a little tired. We hoisted the yellow Q flag to show we had not yet cleared customs.
We arrived at the harbour on the west side of Great Sale Cay, a long and unhabituated island, about 13:00 and, despite this being a favourite stopping point for boats crossing into the Abacos we were the only boat there. It was a pleasant, calm afternoon and evening. After an early diner we all turned in and slept quite well.
Progress ! Wilma, Peter and Bob (the laggard) all now have their Doctor’s Clearance Letters so were able to apply for and were granted the Letter of Exemption for Travel from the Bahamian authorities. Final step is to apply for the Bahamas Travel Visa and then the Cruising Permit which they will do probably on Sunday as it can only be applied for 3 days prior to expected arrival in the Bahamas.
Meanwhile back on the US side, Bob went to the US Customs and Border people to apply for the ‘Permission to Leave’ on Friday as they are not open on weekends. It’s valid for 48 hours.
So, the hope is we all leave on Sunday morning, the sailors heading south, Tarja heading north. The Gulf Stream crossing is targeted for Monday night starting at the St Lucie Inlet.
Meanwhile it rained for the third day in a row and the wind is really blowing but as before, nothing to shovel for which we are grateful. Last night in the wee hours the winds were gusting at 30+ knots making it rather noisy and bit bouncy. Ah the sailors’ life!
Today Bob went to the doctor to get his medical letter to apply to the Bahamas for the Medical Exemption. Sadly the rapid antigen test showed him as still positive so he needs to wait another 5 days. Well more time to explore I guess.
Yesterday we spent the day in St Augustine, the oldest city in the US.
City gates with our restaurant in behind on the left
It was interesting seeing many of the historical buildings but like so many places it was very yucky touristy. We did have a very fine lunch though to celebrate Bob’s birthday.
It wasn’t difficult to see that we were in the US:
Well, things are moving along. Peter and Wilma both received their Medical Exemption letters from the Bahamas this morning which will allow them to get the Bahamas Health Visa. Bob expects/hopes he will have his Monday morning. If so, we will all apply for the Bahamas Health Visa then with our planned itinerary. Once we have that we can apply for our Cruising Permit. Then (also Monday we think) we will visit the US CBP (customs and Border Patrol) office at Cape Canaveral and get the Permission to Leave for the boat. However, as the Permission is only good for 3 days, we first must know that there is a weather window for crossing the Gulf Stream and it’s too early to predict when that is. Right now some forecasts are saying next Wednesday or Thursday night will be good to cross but we shall see.
In the meantime, we are venturing out and around Titusville. It has a rather nice historic part of town with a great bakery and coffee shop.
And, of course, several parks good for viewing rocket launches. We’ve already seen three: 2 daylight launches and a night time launch which really lit up the night sky. The sound took almost a minute and a half to reach us!
yacht, Ulysses. The only annoyance from them was their helicopter taking off and landing several times. On the other hand, we were treated to one of the best sunsets we’d ever seen.
Titusville. It has a rather nice historic part of town with a great bakery and coffee shop.